Turkmenistan is a country with a rich culinary tradition, shaped at the crossroads of Persia, Central Asia, and the Middle East. The local cuisine is a blend of simple ingredients, deep flavors, and age-old recipes passed down through generations. If you are traveling to Turkmenistan, this guide will help you understand what you absolutely must try and where best to do it.
Main characteristics of Turkmen cuisine
Turkmen cuisine differs from Uzbek, Tajik, and Kazakh cuisine due to several characteristic features:
- Meat — lamb and beef are the basis of most dishes. Poultry is found less frequently.
- Simplicity of preparation — Turkmens prefer rich but not complex flavors. They do not use many spices.
- Large amounts of bread — Turkmen bread (chorek, dograma) is served with every meal.
- Tea is the main drink — green tea with or without milk is drunk constantly, from morning until evening. A cup of tea is a sign of hospitality.
- Seasonality — vegetables and fruits dominate in summer, while meat dishes and dried fruits prevail in winter.
Main dishes of Turkmen cuisine
Plov — the king of the Turkmen table
Plov is the main dish of Turkmen cuisine, the king of the table, without which no holiday or family meal is complete. In Turkmenistan, plov is prepared in its own way — it differs from Uzbek and Tajik versions. Turkmen plov is usually less greasy, with a large amount of carrots and spices.
A classic Turkmen plov includes:
- Rice (round-grain, local variety)
- Lamb (a fatty piece on the bone)
- Carrots (yellow and orange, cut into strips)
- Onions, garlic, cumin, turmeric
Plov is cooked in large cauldrons, and proper plov should be crumbly, with a golden crust at the bottom — KAZYLYK (crispy crust).
Where to try: The best plov is found at bazaars and in teahouses (chaikhanas), where it is prepared in the morning in large cauldrons.
Manty — the queen of the Turkmen table
Manty are large steamed dumplings with a meat filling, which are considered the second most important dish in Turkmen cuisine. Unlike Uzbek manty, Turkmen ones are usually larger and have thicker dough.
The filling is classic — lamb with onions and pumpkin (seasonally). In some regions, potatoes or herbs are added. Manty are served with tomato sauce or sour cream, generously sprinkled with herbs.
Where to try: In almost any cafe or restaurant. Manty are especially good in family teahouses, where they are prepared in the mornings.
Shashlik — street classic
Shashlik (shish kebab) in Turkmenistan is not just food, but an entire culture. Meat is marinated in onion juice with spices and roasted over charcoal on wooden skewers.
Features of Turkmen shashlik:
- The meat is cut into large pieces (not small, as in the Caucasus)
- The marinade is simple — onions, salt, pepper, cumin
- Served with fresh onions, herbs, and bread
- Shashlik is eaten with your hands, wrapping the meat in lavash
Tip: The best shashlik is at bazaars and in outdoor cafes, where the meat is fresh and grilled over real charcoal.
Chorba and Shurpa — rich soups
Chorba is a thick soup with meat broth and vegetables. In Turkmenistan, chorba is cooked with lamb, potatoes, tomatoes, herbs, and garlic. The broth should be rich and clear.
Shurpa is a lighter soup with plenty of vegetables and herbs. It is often served as a first course during family meals.
Both soups are served hot with bread and herbs.
Lagman — Turkmen noodles
Lagman is thick noodles with a meat sauce. In Turkmenistan, lagman is cooked with lamb, bell peppers, tomatoes, garlic, and fresh herbs. The noodles are made by hand by stretching the dough — hence the name.
Lagman comes in two types:
- Dry — noodles with sauce on top
- Liquid — soup with noodles
Chuchvara — mini-manty
Chuchvara are miniature manty served in a rich broth with herbs. It is one of the most popular dishes in Turkmen teahouses. Chuchvara is usually eaten as a soup — with broth, a spoonful of sour cream, and fresh herbs.
Ishlekli — Turkmen meat pie
Ishlekli is a round layered pie with a meat filling (lamb and onions). It is cooked in a tandoor oven and served hot. Ishlekli is a great option for a quick snack or breakfast. It is sold individually at bazaars.
Fitchi — round pies
Fitchi are round layered pies filled with meat, pumpkin, or herbs. Unlike ishlekli, fitchi are usually smaller and have a crunchier dough. They are often sold as takeout — a convenient snack for travelers.
Bread and pastries
Bread holds a special place in Turkmen culture. It must not be thrown, dropped on the ground, or turned upside down.
Chorek
Chorek is a traditional Turkmen bread baked in a tandoor. It has a characteristic round shape with a hole in the middle and a patterned surface. Chorek comes in several types:
- Ordinary — simple bread for the daily table
- With butter — brushed with butter after baking
- With sesame — sprinkled with sesame seeds for flavor
Dograma
Dograma is torn bread that is broken into pieces and served with tea. It is often eaten with tyubeteika (curd) or butter.
Tea culture
Tea in Turkmenistan is not just a drink, but a way of socializing. Offering tea to a guest is a sign of respect. Refusing tea is an insult.
How Turkmens drink tea
- Tea is served in small pialas (bowls without handles) — this helps it cool down faster
- The first cup is poured a lot and then poured out — this is "washing the tea"
- The second cup is poured only a little — this is "the guest's tea"
- Tea is drunk in large quantities — the norm for a guest is 3–5 pialas
Types of tea
- Green tea — the main drink, consumed year-round
- Tea with milk — a popular breakfast choice, especially in rural areas
- Tea with salbid (a drink made from sprouted wheat) — served for breakfast
Drinks
In addition to tea, the following are popular in Turkmenistan:
- Ayran — a fermented milk drink, refreshing in the hot summer
- Kumis — fermented mare's milk, especially in rural areas
- Fresh juices — pomegranate, watermelon, grape (seasonally)
- Chal — a traditional fermented drink made from camel milk or sprouted wheat, rich in vitamins
Sweets and dried fruits
Turkmenistan is famous for its dried fruits — this is one of the main souvenirs that tourists bring home.
Popular dried fruits
- Apricots (kurek) — sweet, sun-dried
- Figs — soft, with a honey-like taste
- Raisins — of various varieties, from light to dark
- Uryuk — large dried apricots
- Walnuts — often mixed with dried fruits
Traditional sweets
- Paluda — Turkmen halvah made from flour, butter, and honey
- Sütlash — rice pudding with cinnamon
- Koshmas — a roll made from dried fruits and nuts wrapped in lavash
Where to eat in Turkmenistan
Teahouses (Chaikhanas) — the heart of Turkmen cuisine
Chaikhanas are traditional Turkmen cafes serving national cuisine. This is where you will find the tastiest manty, plov, and shashlik. Chaikhanas come in several types:
- Family-run — prepared at home, served in a patio
- Bazaar-based — located at markets, with quick service
- Restaurant-style — more expensive, with an extensive menu
Bazaars — the best place for budget dining
At the bazaars, you can find:
- Ready-to-eat food (plov, manty, shashlik)
- Fresh fruits and vegetables
- Dried fruits and nuts
- Dairy products
- Spices and seasonings
Prices at the bazaars are 2–3 times lower than in restaurants.
Restaurants
Ashgabat has several national cuisine restaurants with a good reputation. The cost of a lunch per person is $5–15.
Table etiquette
There are several rules in Turkmenistan that a tourist should know:
- Bread is sacred — do not throw bread, do not turn it over, and do not cut it with a knife (break it with your hands)
- Right hand — eat and serve food with your right hand
- Do not rush — Turkmens eat slowly, enjoying the food and the conversation
- The host pays — it is not customary to split the bill when you are a guest
- More food — if you are offered more, it is a sign of hospitality
- Do not finish your tea — if your cup is empty, it will surely be refilled. To show you are finished, gently tilt or shake your piala
Must-try: TOP 5 dishes
| # | Dish | Why try it | Approx. price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Plov | The king of Turkmen cuisine, cooked in a cauldron with lamb and carrots | 10–20 manat ($2.80–5.70) |
| 2 | Manty | Large steamed dumplings with juicy filling | 12–25 manat ($3.40–7.10) |
| 3 | Shashlik | Fresh meat grilled over charcoal — must try | 15–30 manat ($4.30–8.50) |
| 4 | Chorek | Traditional tandoor bread — perfect with tea | 1–3 manat ($0.30–0.85) |
| 5 | Dried fruits | The best souvenir, fresh and natural | 10–20 manat/kg ($2.80–5.70) |
Conclusion
Turkmen cuisine is simple, hearty, and delicious food that reflects the character of the people: welcoming, warm, and traditional. In Turkmenistan, you won't find Michelin-starred restaurants, but instead, you will experience authentic homemade cuisine prepared with love and based on recipes that are over a hundred years old.
The main rules for a traveler: eat at the bazaars, drink tea in the teahouses, try the plov and manty — and you will surely fall in love with Turkmen cuisine!
